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	<title>Shielding - Revision history</title>
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	<updated>2026-05-27T02:35:29Z</updated>
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		<id>http://nucwiki.org/wiki/index.php?title=Shielding&amp;diff=248&amp;oldid=prev</id>
		<title>Mcmaster: Created page with &quot; = DIY lead brick =  300 px  300 px  My bricks are 6 x 2.5 x 1.  IIRC they were supposed...&quot;</title>
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		<updated>2019-03-09T06:56:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Created page with &amp;quot; = DIY lead brick =  &lt;a href=&quot;/wiki/index.php/File:Mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_castle.jpg&quot; title=&quot;File:Mcmaster pb brick mold castle.jpg&quot;&gt;300 px&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;/wiki/index.php/File:Mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_opened.jpg&quot; title=&quot;File:Mcmaster pb brick mold opened.jpg&quot;&gt;300 px&lt;/a&gt;  My bricks are 6 x 2.5 x 1.  IIRC they were supposed...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;New page&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
= DIY lead brick =&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_castle.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_opened.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My bricks are 6 x 2.5 x 1.  IIRC they were supposed to be 6 x 3 x 1 but I didn't have big enough material on hand.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I made the molds on my Sherline 2000 CNC out of 1/8&amp;quot; steel slats.  Bug me if you really want details, but basically I'm most likely to add details if I design new mold(s) for the actual desired brick size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Currently takes me about 30-45 minutes a brick.  Secondary mold(s) would speed this up considerably.  IIRC I have material to make 4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
JM setup using:&lt;br /&gt;
* Steel brick mold (custom)&lt;br /&gt;
* Lee Precision 20 Pound Pro 4 Electric Metal Melter&lt;br /&gt;
* Scrap lead from eBay&lt;br /&gt;
* Quench tray&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Procedure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_level.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fill lead pot about 75%&lt;br /&gt;
* As needed, skim surface&lt;br /&gt;
* Assemble brick mold&lt;br /&gt;
* Run mold surfaces against steel cart to quickly clean them&lt;br /&gt;
* Run a slat through mold crevices to quickly clean those&lt;br /&gt;
* Place slats into bottom&lt;br /&gt;
* Fit top onto bottom assembly&lt;br /&gt;
* Verify fits together decently well (observing slats at at right angles)&lt;br /&gt;
* Pound the mold against a flat, hard surface.  Flip over and pound the other side&lt;br /&gt;
* Place strap around mold and tighten&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_in_pot.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Pre-heat / fill mold&lt;br /&gt;
* Place brick mold *into* the lead pot&lt;br /&gt;
** Since it was partially filled it should fit&lt;br /&gt;
* Initially the mold will float&lt;br /&gt;
* As lead fills the mold (due to sealing imperfections), adjust it as necessary to make sure it sinks to the bottom&lt;br /&gt;
* Should take 5-10 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
* If it doesn't fill, don't worry about it&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove mold from pot and place underneath pot at a slight angle (sprue up)&lt;br /&gt;
* Open lead pot.  Wedge a screwdriver at top so that it stays open&lt;br /&gt;
* Once mold begins to overflow, remove screwdriver&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_in_pool.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Final filling&lt;br /&gt;
* Knock off all excess lead every 5-10 seconds&lt;br /&gt;
* After knocking of, observe suction into sprue.  If there is no more suction / solidified, you are done&lt;br /&gt;
* Add a small pool to the top&lt;br /&gt;
* If necessary, use a water squirt bottle to stop lead leaking out the back of the mold&lt;br /&gt;
** This will contaminate some of the lead with water, making it dangerous to throw back in&lt;br /&gt;
** Place all overflow into a bin to dry&lt;br /&gt;
* Do a final knockoff to make the sprue easier to remove&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_quench.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Place mold into shallow water&lt;br /&gt;
** No higher than the bottom plate&lt;br /&gt;
* Let cool for 10 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove from water onto table&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_sprue_clean.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* If necessary, scrape off sprue excess&lt;br /&gt;
* Loosen clamp and slide off&lt;br /&gt;
* Gently tap the a side outward.  Rotate through the 4 left / right + top / bottom combinations until both top and bottom are loosened&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_open_top.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove top mold&lt;br /&gt;
* Sprue should give some resistance but pull out fairly easily&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_empty.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Tap brick in mold against soft metal (ie aluminum) to release brick.  Ensure sprue is overhanging an edge such that you aren't pounding it into the mold&lt;br /&gt;
* Inspect brick&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a large sag at the top you cooled the brick too quickly (before quenching)&lt;br /&gt;
* If brick is damaged around sprue, you didn't let it cool long enough&lt;br /&gt;
* If the lead is not one solid piece and/or only half filled, you did not sufficiently pre-heat the mold&lt;br /&gt;
* Use sheet metal cutter to remove sprue&lt;br /&gt;
* Use a hobby knife to debur brick edges&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General notes&lt;br /&gt;
* I usually pickup the mold by either the clamp screw or by grabbing an end (using grove joint pliers)&lt;br /&gt;
* I've experimented with only removing the top to reduce mold cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
* Full brick quenching will release lead easier but may warp mold and other issues&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_scale.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Unclear if should keep/remove antimony (adds hardness)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:mcmaster_pb_brick_mold_waste.jpg|300 px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* If excess lead may have been contaminated with water, let it dry before reusing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mold ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://github.com/JohnDMcMaster/uvscada/tree/master/ngc/pb_brick&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crude g-code generator.  Think the mold may also be off by 1/8&amp;quot; or something like that&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Mcmaster</name></author>
		
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